Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Semana santa

With 85% of the population affiliated with christianity, the Philippines are the only christian nation in the far East. The vast majority of Filipino christians belong to the roman catholic church, the rest is spread across a colourful palette of christian churches and sects. For that alone, the Philippines are a remarkable anomaly in the religious landscape of Asia. However, also in the christian world the philippines are regarded as a somewhat peculiar country, most notably during the Holy Week or 'semana santa'.


The Holy Week is the only time of the year during which you can be certain that the Philippines will feature in the 'oddities section' of newspapers and television broadcasts. Every year a number of Filipinos - mostly men, but not exclusively - re-enact the passion of Jesus Christ and have themselves nailed to the cross on Good Friday (Byernes Santo). The ritual is part of a whole series of dramatic re-eanctments of biblical stories related to the Holy Week. It is very much a thing of the people, since church leaders tend to oppose the practice. In a sense, these 'Kristos' seem to be 'playing their part' in the whole dramatic staging of the story, with Filipinos dressing up as romans and playing 'the bad guys', but of course there is always a strong personal motivation to follow in the footsteps of Christ. It is at once a very personal calavary path, a very public ritual and a piece of intense drama. Many Filipinos, however, complain that with rising tourist fascination for this phenomenenon, the thing has become a show more than anything else. A few years back, there was even an Englishman among those to be crucified, but the poor man withdrew at the very last moment. Health organisations take a down-to-earth stance opposite the rituals and strongly advise those that want to be crucified to have a tetanus shot before having nails driven through their hands.

It's a shame, of course, that only the spectacular crucifixions and flaggelations draw the attention of the international media, as the Holy Week in the Philippines appears to be one of the most interesting religious celebrations in the world, with christian and non-christian rituals combined in large-scale 'fiestas'. The crucifixions only occur in a few places and are not essential to the Holy Week celebrations.

And let's be honoust and look at our own Easter celebration: hiding easter eggs in your garden and telling your kids the easter bunny or the church bells returning from Rome dropped them there is hardly the most spiritually enhancing thing to do, is it?